This season unpicks the tension between the necessity of isolation and the desire to be seen.
The layered, elongated look is organized and opulent, an ode to the performance of getting dressed.
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Curved seams on sleeves offer a rounded embrace. Wide four-pleat pants pool at the ankle. Merino knits sit high on the neck and are pulled down on the body. Buttons are lowered on jackets and collarless blousons. Hands folded into pockets form gathers of rich, supple textile.
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Mayner reframes the familiar, using what he sees on the streets of Paris or his native Tel Aviv, and teases it. He revels in the tactility and hardiness of English cloth, the fluidity of Italian wool, dry tweeds with a cashmere touch. Cottons appear in a mixture of weights and tones.
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There is a dynamic between the interior and the exterior – space between the body and the material, the back and the front. This is expressed in a series of tabards drawn mid-calf, either fed through an open slit on the back of button-down coats or worn twisted over the shoulder, creating open front ponchos.
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The shoulders of tailored blazers are blown out. An asymmetric one-sleeve felted wool top is worn underneath a V-neck blouson. Crisp cotton judo pants are tucked into single-seam suede boots that ruche at the ankle. The palette of butter, rust, ivory, cement, copper, camel, navy and olive evokes the diffused radiance of watercolour.
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The look does not pursue the conceit of perfection but instead finds joy in the meandering lines of a generously cut lapel or the volume of a sleeve. There is a mannish softness. A volume that follows the body. A supple architecture. A minimalism that is not minimalist. A romance that is unsentimental. An elegance, askew.
© Hed Mayner
Dal Chodha
Press Contact: landry@dlx.co
